Washington state’s pioneering Gordon Brothers are back after some years of struggle, now offering some good wines entirely from estate vineyards.

By Paul Gregutt

Special to the Seattle Times

WHEN YOU REACH a certain age, you suddenly realize you can’t go back and make any more old friends. Old friends have been there all along; they don’t pop up late in life. They started out on the road with all the people who have since faded from memory or disappeared from your world; but they are the ones who, time-tested, remain.

It’s like that in the wine industry also.

Gordon Brothers winery dates back to 1980, when Jeff and Bill Gordon planted their estate vineyard atop a spectacular bluff overlooking the Snake River, a few miles north of Pasco. The Washington wine industry was barely begun; existing wineries numbered fewer than a dozen, many of them now extinct.